
I went off of where the nails were located on the outside–and hoped.įirst I measured how far apart the studs were, and then made sure that the 2x4 would long enough to go over the studs on both sides. My house’s add on storage closet has a wood siting exterior and a plywood interior–so I wasn’t able to peek inside to figure out where the studs were. You don’t want the heavy pegboard to fall off of the wall as you’ll probably get injured.
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Optional: belt sander, helps smooth then pegboard down, and also helps you sand the pegs down to size as they are too tight to fit as is. Optional: chop saw for making nice clean cuts. Saw, for cutting the boards down to size. (These help prevent the heads of the bolts from going too far into the wood when you tighten them in.) (30) ¼" washers for all of the wood bolt screws. (These will go through the pegboard and all the way into the bracing/studs.) these will bolt the angle iron brace into the studs and up into the 2x4s. (These will bolt the 2x4s to the wall into the wall studs). I forget the size but it might be 1 ½", just long enough to not stick out further than the 2x4 you are bracing with it).
(1) 2ft long 1 ½" wood dowel (to use for the pegs.). (you can also use 1 ¼" if you want smaller pegs.) (1) 1 ½" inch wood drill bit, the spade style. (10) 3" sheetrock screws (to hold the 2x4s to the wall and to hold the pegboard boards together during mounting/drilling.). (1) 10ft 2x12 (for the pegboard itself.).
This thing is heavy and it needs to be able to support your weight as well.įor my design I used the following materials: If you cannot find the studs, well–you need to. My way works well for places where you know where the studs are located.
First you need to decide how you want to mount your pegboard to your wall.